Hemis National Park Travel Guide: Ladakh’s Mountains of Snow Leopards

Hemis National Park Travel Guide: Ladakh's Mountains of Snow Leopards

Hemis National Park, located in the eastern part of Ladakh, is a sanctuary for wildlife enthusiasts and adventurers alike. Spanning over 4,400 sq. km, it is the largest national park in South Asia and is renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich biodiversity, and as one of the best places in the world to spot the elusive snow leopard. The park’s rugged mountains, deep valleys, and high-altitude plains make it a unique destination for those seeking both natural beauty and cultural experiences.


How to Reach: Hemis National Park Entry Points

To reach Hemis National Park, you can access it from various entry points depending on your route.

  1. From Leh (Zingchen and Martselang):
    • Zingchen is typically the starting point for trekkers coming from Leh, as it is the closest road-accessible village (around 20 km from Leh). From here, the trekking route leads into the park’s northern regions. Rumbak village is further along the trek and serves as a key destination for those venturing into the park, particularly for snow leopard spotting. It lies deeper inside the park, approximately 8 km from Zingchen.
    • Martselang (around 45 km from Leh) is another key entry point, providing access to the park’s eastern areas. Martselang is commonly used by those starting the trek towards Hemis Monastery and deeper into the park.
  1. From Zanskar (Stongde and Phuktal Monastery):
    • Stongde: About 18 km from Padum in Zanskar, Stongde offers access to the park for trekkers approaching from the southwest.
    • Phuktal Monastery: Located around 45 km from Padum, this monastery can be a starting point for those exploring the remote southern parts of the park.
  2. From Rumbak:
    • Rumbak Village (approximately 35 km from Leh) is an important entry point, especially for wildlife enthusiasts aiming to spot the elusive snow leopard in winter. It is also part of popular trekking routes like the Markha Valley trek.
  3. From Shang Sumdo:
    • Shang Sumdo (around 50 km from Leh) is another access point for trekking, particularly for those on the Shang Valley trek. It connects with the Markha Valley and is less crowded than Zingchen or Martselang.
  4. From Chilling:
    • Chilling Village (approximately 60 km from Leh) is another entry point into the park, often used by trekkers on the Chadar (Frozen River) Trek. This route provides access to the park from the western side.
  5. From Likir:
    • Likir Village (around 58 km from Leh) is not a primary entry to Hemis National Park, but it provides access to some northeastern trekking routes like the Sham Valley Trek, which connects to other parts of Ladakh.
  6. From Tso Moriri (Korzok):
    • Korzok Village, near Tso Moriri Lake (approximately 240 km from Leh), can serve as an entry point for those exploring the remote southeastern regions of Hemis National Park. However, this route is less common and more challenging.

These entry points provide various options for accessing Hemis National Park, depending on your route and trekking plans.


What to See in Hemis National Park

Mountain Landscapes and Rock Formations:

Hemis National Park is set against the dramatic backdrop of the Trans-Himalayan region, showcasing some of the most stunning and rugged mountain landscapes in the world. The park’s terrain is characterized by steep, jagged peaks, deep gorges, and high-altitude plateaus, with altitudes ranging from 3,300 meters to 6,400 meters. Key geological features include:

  • Fold Mountains: Hemis lies in the Ladakh Range, part of the greater Himalayan orogenic belt, formed through the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates. The park’s mountains are classic examples of fold mountains, with visible strata showing the intense pressure that shaped them.
  • Sedimentary Rock Formations: The region is rich in sedimentary rocks, including limestone, sandstone, and shale, which were deposited in ancient seas millions of years ago. These rocks often appear as layered cliffs, adding to the park’s dramatic scenery.
  • Glacial Valleys: The park features U-shaped valleys carved by ancient glaciers, particularly visible in areas like the Markha Valley. These valleys are often flanked by moraines, ridges formed by glacial debris.
  • Limestone Karsts: In some parts of the park, you’ll find limestone karsts, characterized by sharp, jagged rock formations that have been sculpted by water erosion over millennia.

Flora:

Despite its harsh, high-altitude environment, Hemis National Park is home to a surprising variety of plant life, adapted to the cold and arid conditions:

  • Alpine Shrubs and Herbs: Above 4,500 meters, the park is dominated by hardy alpine shrubs and herbs, such as Caragana (a type of legume) and Artemisia (sagebrush), which can survive the cold and nutrient-poor soils.
  • Juniper and Willow Groves: In the lower valleys, particularly along streams and riverbeds, you can find groves of juniper and willow, which provide essential shelter and food for local wildlife.
  • Wildflowers: During the short summer, the park blooms with wildflowers like edelweiss, blue poppies, and primroses, adding splashes of color to the rocky landscape.

Fauna:

Hemis National Park is one of the most biodiverse areas in Ladakh, with an array of wildlife, including:

  • Snow Leopard: The park is one of the best places in the world to see the elusive snow leopard, particularly in winter when they descend to lower altitudes.
  • Himalayan Blue Sheep (Bharal): These agile herbivores are a common sight, often seen grazing on the park’s steep slopes.
  • Tibetan Wolf: A top predator alongside the snow leopard, the Tibetan wolf roams the park’s remote areas, hunting for small mammals and occasionally livestock.
  • Eurasian Lynx: This solitary and elusive cat is another rare predator found in the park.
  • Himalayan Marmot: These large, burrowing rodents are often spotted in the summer, basking in the sun near their burrows.
  • Birds: Hemis is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, with species such as the Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture), Golden Eagle, Tibetan Snowcock, and the Chukar Partridge making their home in the park.

Cultural Landscape:

Hemis National Park is not only a natural treasure but also a region rich in cultural heritage, deeply rooted in the traditions of Ladakh:

  • Hemis Monastery: The 400-year-old Hemis Monastery, one of the largest and most significant monasteries in Ladakh, is the cultural heart of the park. The monastery is famous for its annual Hemis Festival, which celebrates the birth of Guru Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism.
  • Traditional Villages: Scattered within the park are small, traditional Ladakhi villages like Rumbak, Markha, and Skiu, where life has remained largely unchanged for centuries. These villages offer a glimpse into the simple yet resilient lifestyle of the local people, who practice subsistence agriculture and animal husbandry.
  • Stok Palace: Located near the park, Stok Palace is a symbol of Ladakh’s royal heritage. The palace houses a museum with artifacts, including royal clothing, thangkas (Buddhist paintings), and ancient weapons, providing insight into the region’s history.
  • Ancient Trails and Trade Routes: The park’s rugged terrain is crisscrossed by ancient trails and trade routes that once connected Ladakh with Tibet and Central Asia. These routes are now popular trekking paths, offering both natural beauty and historical intrigue.

Hemis National Park offers a unique blend of awe-inspiring natural landscapes, rich biodiversity, and deep cultural heritage, making it a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Ladakh. Whether you’re captivated by the geology, the wildlife, or the centuries-old monasteries, the park promises an unforgettable experience.


Exploring Hemis National Park

Hemis National Park for the General Tourists (by Car)

Zingchen:

Entry: Zingchen, located 15 km from Leh, serves as one of the main entry points into Hemis National Park. The road ends here, marking the last motorable point.

Short Hike: A short hike from Zingchen (1-2 hours) leads you into the heart of the park, along the Rumbak Valley, where you can encounter blue sheep and possibly even the elusive snow leopard in winter. This hike offers a taste of the park’s remote and wild interior without requiring extensive trekking.

Martselang:

Entry: About 35 km from Leh, Martselang is another key entry point into the park. It is particularly popular among visitors heading to Hemis Monastery.

Short Hike: From Martselang, a short hike (around 1 hour) takes you to the ancient Hemis Monastery, one of the largest and wealthiest monasteries in Ladakh. For those wanting to venture a bit further, the trail continues into the park, providing serene views of the Martselang River and opportunities to experience the tranquility of the park’s interior.

Stok:

Entry: Stok village, situated 15 km from Leh, is the starting point for both casual hikes and serious treks.

Short Hike: From Stok, a scenic hike towards the base of Stok Kangri (2-3 hours round trip) offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. This hike provides a glimpse of the more rugged terrain that lies deeper within the park, making it a rewarding experience for those with limited time.

Main Attractions:

Hemis Monastery: A must-visit, the Hemis Monastery is known for its impressive architecture and vibrant festivals, particularly the annual Hemis Festival, which takes place in June or July. The monastery is a cultural highlight of the region, rich in history and spiritual significance.

Stok Palace: Just outside the park, the Stok Palace offers a cultural experience with its museum showcasing royal artifacts and insights into Ladakhi heritage.

Wildlife Viewing: Hemis National Park is home to a variety of wildlife, including the blue sheep, Tibetan wolf, Eurasian brown bear, and the snow leopard, which has earned the park its nickname, “The Snow Leopard Capital of the World.” Winter months are particularly favorable for spotting snow leopards, as they descend to lower altitudes.

Accommodation:

  • Leh: Many visitors base themselves in Leh, which offers a range of accommodations from budget guesthouses to luxury hotels. Staying in Leh allows for easy day trips to the park.
  • Near Hemis Monastery: For those wanting to stay closer to the park, a few guesthouses and homestays near Hemis Monastery provide a more immersive experience, with opportunities to engage with local culture and explore the park at a slower pace.

For Avid Hikers and Trekkers

Trekking Routes in Hemis National Park:

  • Markha Valley Trek: This iconic trek, often starting from Zingchen or Martselang, takes 6-8 days and offers stunning landscapes, river crossings, and encounters with traditional Ladakhi villages. The Markha Valley Trek is one of the most popular routes in Hemis National Park and provides a deeper exploration of the region’s natural beauty.
  • Stok Kangri Trek: For experienced trekkers, the Stok Kangri Trek, starting from Stok village, offers the challenge of summiting a 6,000-meter peak. This trek typically takes 8-10 days and requires proper acclimatization.
  • Hemis to Tso Moriri Trek: A longer and more demanding trek, this route takes about 10-12 days, passing through high-altitude passes and offering breathtaking views of serene lakes and remote landscapes.

The Zanskar Valley Road and Hemis National Park

The recently operational Zanskar Valley Road, which cuts through the core zone of Hemis National Park, has opened up access to some of the park’s most significant locations. This road provides easier entry to places like Chilling, a traditional village known for its metalwork artisans and as a starting point for the Chadar Trek. As the road winds through the Neyphu Valley, it offers travelers the chance to spot wildlife, including snow leopards, in their natural habitat.

The road also brings visitors closer to Skiu Village, a picturesque stop along the Markha Valley Trek, and provides easier access to the ancient Hemis Monastery, a cultural gem of the region. Additionally, the road passes near the base of Shingo La Pass, a high-altitude pass that connects Zanskar with Ladakh, making this route a vital artery for both adventure and cultural exploration within the park.

Hemis National Park Trek from Chilling

The route from Chilling to Skiu is a well-known trekking path in the Markha Valley region, which is part of Hemis National Park. Here’s a detailed overview of the route and what lies further beyond Skiu:

1. Chilling to Skiu

  • Chilling (approximately 60 km from Leh) is a village located on the banks of the Zanskar River. It serves as one of the access points to the Markha Valley trek.
  • From Chilling, trekkers cross the Zanskar River using a pulley or a suspension bridge (depending on the season), and then the trail leads towards Skiu.
  • The trek to Skiu takes around 3-4 hours and is relatively easy, with gradual ascents. Skiu lies at an altitude of about 3,350 meters (11,000 feet) and is located at the confluence of the Markha River and Shingo stream. Skiu is a small village that acts as a rest stop for trekkers.

2. Skiu to Markha

  • From Skiu, the trek continues along the Markha River towards Markha Village. This section of the trek offers stunning views of Ladakh’s arid landscape and takes about 6-7 hours.
  • Markha Village, located at around 3,700 meters (12,100 feet), is one of the largest settlements in the Markha Valley, with traditional Ladakhi houses, and a small monastery.

3. Markha to Hankar

  • After Markha, the trail moves towards Hankar Village, which lies at an altitude of approximately 4,000 meters (13,100 feet). This leg of the trek takes around 5-6 hours and offers breathtaking views of the high-altitude landscapes, along with sightings of wildlife such as blue sheep.

4. Hankar to Nimaling

  • Beyond Hankar, the route leads to Nimaling, a wide, high-altitude pasture at 4,700 meters (15,400 feet), used by shepherds. This is one of the most scenic parts of the trek, with views of Kang Yatse Peak (6,400 meters).
  • Nimaling serves as a base for trekkers attempting the Kongmaru La Pass.

5. Nimaling to Kongmaru La and Shang Sumdo

  • The final leg of the trek involves crossing the Kongmaru La Pass (5,200 meters), the highest point of the trek. The descent from the pass leads to Shang Sumdo, a village near Hemis, where the trek concludes.
  • From Shang Sumdo, trekkers can return to Leh by road.

This entire route from Chilling to Skiu and further is part of the Markha Valley Trek, a popular trekking circuit in Ladakh, which passes through Hemis National Park and offers stunning views of Ladakh’s rugged landscape, remote villages, and wildlife.

Chilling to Nimaling Off-Road Journey

It is also possible to traverse the route from Chilling to Nimaling by car during the fair season (May, June, October, and November), particularly when the weather is favorable and roads are accessible. This off-road journey follows the Markha Valley route and allows for limited vehicle access in these months.

Key Details:

  1. Route Accessibility:
    The route from Chilling to Nimaling passes through rough, rugged terrain that is accessible to 4×4 vehicles during the fair season, when snow and monsoon-related obstacles are minimal. However, the terrain remains challenging, and only experienced drivers with suitable off-road vehicles can traverse the route.
  2. Stops along the Route:
    • Chilling to Skiu: This portion of the route follows the Zanskar River, with some off-road paths connecting to Skiu. The route is narrow and may require caution, particularly while crossing riverbeds.
    • Skiu to Markha: Vehicles can continue along this off-road path in dry months, reaching Markha Village, one of the larger settlements in the valley.
    • Markha to Hankar: The journey from Markha to Hankar continues on an off-road track that ascends gradually into higher altitudes. This stretch is rough but manageable with a high-clearance vehicle.
    • Hankar to Nimaling: From Hankar, vehicles can reach Nimaling, though this part of the route is more challenging due to its higher altitude and more rugged terrain.
  3. Best Time for Off-Road Journey:
    • May & June: The weather is generally clear, with melting snow making the roads accessible. However, river crossings may be more challenging due to increased water flow from the snowmelt.
    • October & November: During these months, the terrain is dry, and river levels are lower, making it easier for vehicles to traverse. This is also the post-monsoon period when roads are in better condition.
  4. Vehicle Recommendations:
    Only 4×4 vehicles or vehicles with high ground clearance are suitable for this journey due to the rough terrain. It’s essential to be prepared with proper off-road driving skills and equipment, including spare tires, a winch, and recovery gear.

While the Chilling to Nimaling route is primarily popular with trekkers, off-road enthusiasts can explore this stunning region by vehicle during these favorable months, making it one of Ladakh’s unique adventure experiences.


Entry Points to Hemis National Park in Zanskar

Stongde (Western Entry Point):

  • Overview: The village of Stongde, with its commanding monastery, serves as the western entry point into Hemis National Park. Stongde Monastery, perched 300 meters above the valley, provides a stunning vantage point to take in the expansive Zanskar landscape.
  • Significance: From Stongde, the trek leads through the Stongde La pass and descends towards the Tsarap River, guiding you deeper into the park’s core zone. The highlight of this route is Shade Village, one of the most remote and isolated settlements in Zanskar. Shade offers a rare glimpse into a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries, set amidst the untouched wilderness of Hemis National Park.

Phuktal (Southern Entry Point):

  • Overview: Phuktal Monastery, located along the Tsarap River in the Lungnak Valley, marks the southern entry point into Hemis National Park. The monastery, dramatically built into the mouth of a large cave on a vertical cliffside, is a spiritual and cultural landmark in the region.
  • Significance: As with the route from Stongde, the trek from Phuktal follows the Tsarap River, leading trekkers to the remote Shade Village. Shade is the centerpiece of both trekking routes, offering a deeply immersive experience in the park’s core zone. Surrounded by towering peaks and accessible only by foot, Shade Village provides a unique opportunity to connect with the pristine environment and the traditional Ladakhi culture.

Shade Village: The Heart of the Trek

  • Regardless of whether you enter Hemis National Park from Stongde in the west or Phuktal in the south, Shade Village is the central attraction of this trekking route. Nestled deep within the park, Shade is a hidden gem where time seems to stand still. The village’s remote location, far from the modern world, allows visitors to experience the serene beauty of Ladakh’s landscapes and the resilient lifestyle of its inhabitants. This village serves as a pivotal point in the trek, offering both a cultural highlight and a resting place before continuing your journey through the wild and rugged terrain of Hemis National Park.

Permits and Guides:

  • Permits: Trekking in Hemis National Park requires permits, which can be obtained in Leh. It’s essential to check for the latest regulations and requirements before starting your trek.
  • Guides: Hiring a local guide is highly recommended, especially for unfamiliar or challenging routes. Guides are invaluable for their knowledge of the terrain, wildlife, and culture, and can greatly enhance your trekking experience.

Accommodation:

  • Camping: Trekkers will spend most nights camping, with campsites located near villages or along the trekking routes. Some treks may also offer homestay options in villages like Rumbak or Markha, providing a unique opportunity to experience Ladakhi hospitality.
  • Homestays: Villages within the park, such as Rumbak, offer basic homestay accommodations, allowing trekkers to rest and refuel while getting a closer look at local life.

What to Pack:

  • Trekking Gear: Essential items include a quality sleeping bag, tent, trekking poles, and a backpack. Good hiking boots are a must, as well as appropriate clothing for varying weather conditions.
  • Clothing: Layered clothing is crucial, including thermal wear, a windproof and waterproof jacket, and a warm hat and gloves.
  • Altitude Sickness Medication: The high altitudes can pose a risk, so carrying medication like Diamox is advisable.
  • Water Purification: A water purification system or tablets are essential for sourcing water from streams during your trek.

Safety Tips:

  • Acclimatization: Spend a few days in Leh before starting your trek to acclimatize and reduce the risk of altitude sickness.
  • Weather Awareness: Be prepared for sudden changes in weather, including rain, snow, and cold temperatures.
  • Leave No Trace: Following the principles of Leave No Trace is critical to preserving the pristine environment of Hemis National Park.

Written by 

Me, Debojyoti Dey Mazumder, one of the directors of Promise India Tourism Pvt Ltd, has been in the tours and travel business since 2010. Having experience of operating tours to different destinations of India I wish to share my knowledge to promote them through discussions, blogs, articles, photo stories etc on different platforms.

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